Jess Reynolds – Surfing
How long have you been surfing for??
I’be been surfing for about 6 years. I first learnt while in Australia when I fell for a surf instructor.. ! 🙂
WHY do you do what you do??
I surf because it’s cool. There are heaps of uber babes and it’s the coolest way to get in shape, feel sexy and get an adrenaline rush at the same time. I have never liked gyms and surfing gets your whole body limber, toned and strong without feeling like you are trying too hard. It’s the most addictive thing I have ever done, and once you start riding the green un-broken wave, you strive to get that feeling on a wave again and again. To feel the power of the ocean propelling you along, the sheer beauty of it just blows your mind.
I now have 3 boards (8 ft 3 longboard, 6ft fish & 6ft 2 fatty) and will ONLY go on surf holidays. I don’t know what I did with my time before surfing! The surfing community is huge and keeps growing. It’s great when complete strangers strike up conversations out in the waves and you bond over the waves, cool bikinis, the views, the wildlife, the epic wave you just had, the epic wave she just had, or the kid that is learning and just got his first wave! It’s a sport of no age limits. It’s so amazing to see a tiny little grommet paddling out next to the 60 year old legend who has been surfing these waves for 50 years.
Its such an awesome feeling when every body is ‘hooting’ and whistling for each other on their ‘wave of the day’ or when everyone paddles for the same huge wave and you get a ‘party wave’.. it is SUCH fun! I can’t actually express how much surfing has changed my life. I feel fully alive when doing the sport and at times when the waves are small and glassy, you will be sitting out back, thinking, reflecting and having gratitude for everything right there and in front of you. There is not one surf lesson that has gone by that I’ve regretted.
Life is better when you surf.
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